As global textile regulations continue to evolve, brands, manufacturers, and suppliers are facing growing pressure to prove product safety, chemical compliance, traceability, and sustainability across increasingly complex supply chains. Issues such as PFAS restrictions, REACH regulations, Digital Product Passports, and international testing requirements are no longer optional considerations — they are becoming essential components of global textile trade.
To better understand these transformations and their impact on textile manufacturers worldwide, Behnam Ghasemi, Editor of Kohan Textile Journal, spoke with Jaime Griggs, Brand Partnership Director at Hohenstein.
In this exclusive interview, Jaime Griggs shares valuable insights into the changing role of textile certifications, the increasing complexity of compliance in the U.S. and European markets, the growing importance of traceability and digitalization, and the challenges manufacturers in emerging regions such as the Middle East and Africa face when entering global supply chains.
She also explains how Hohenstein supports brands and suppliers through testing, certification, onboarding strategies, and long-term compliance planning in an industry where verified proof is becoming more important than ever.
1- From your perspective, how has the role of textile standards and certification evolved in the global market over the past few years?
Standards and certification used to be a differentiator, something forward-thinking brands pursued to stand out. That is no longer the case. Regulatory requirements have tightened on multiple fronts: REACH restrictions in the EU, PFAS regulations spreading across U.S. states, CPSIA requirements for children’s products, California’s own chemical mandates. Brands and retailers are under real pressure to substantiate what they put on labels and in marketing claims. That pressure does not stay with the brand. It travels down the supply chain. When brands and retailers need to prove products are safe, they turn to suppliers and ask the same question. Certification is how that proof moves, in a form that buyers, regulators and consumers actually recognize and trust.
2. How do brands and manufacturers in the US approach compliance and testing today? Has their level of awareness changed?
Brands and manufacturers are thinking about compliance with a global mindset, but the U.S. market adds complexity that catches many suppliers off guard. Federal regulations set a baseline, but individual states can go further. California, fifth-largest economy in the world, sets some of the strictest chemical standards in the U.S. A substance permitted at the federal level may be restricted in California, effectively setting the legal limit. Knowing the difference requires understanding exactly which materials and finished goods are affected.
PFAS is the clearest example right now. Restrictions are expanding at both the state and federal level, and we have seen a significant increase in client inquiries and testing requests related to PFAS over the past several years. Regulations change constantly, and one of the most common challenges we hear is keeping internal teams and supply chains current. Companies with well-managed chemical programs treat compliance as an ongoing process, not a one-time check.
3- In your opinion, how important are certifications and testing services in building trust between suppliers and international buyers?
Testing is the foundation of any solid compliance program. It gives you the data you need to know your products are safe and meeting requirements. Certification builds on that by signaling something beyond a single test result. A certified supplier has already done the due diligence. They are not waiting for a buyer to ask. That proactive commitment is what builds trust, because a buyer can see the work has been done before the conversation even starts. There is also a practical efficiency.
A supplier who holds the right certification brings verified proof to every customer relationship and avoids absorbing the cost of redundant testing for each one. For suppliers working to enter new markets, that combination of credibility and efficiency makes a real difference.
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4- What are the most common challenges textile manufacturers face when trying to meet international standards and regulations?
The most common challenge is simply knowing where to start. Regulations vary by market, by product type and by material composition. A brand or supplier that does not have a clear picture of where their products are sold and what those markets require can end up over-testing, spending budget on requirements that do not apply, or under-testing, which creates real liability exposure including fines and product recalls.
Keeping internal teams current is an ongoing challenge too. Regulations change, and the work of translating those changes into practical testing decisions does not happen automatically.
5- How do you see the level of awareness and adoption of textile standards in emerging markets such as the Middle East and Africa?
From what we observe globally, awareness is growing. Brands are requiring more from their suppliers regardless of where those suppliers are located, and that pressure is reaching manufacturers in every region. The OEKO-TEX® network of certified facilities is growing across more than 100 countries, which tells us the demand for verified compliance is not concentrated in any one market. What tends to differ is the starting point.
Manufacturers in more established export markets often have more relationships in place. In emerging markets, the burden of proof can be steeper, but the direction is the same. Buyers are asking for proof, and suppliers who can provide it have a clear advantage.
6- Which key trends (e.g. sustainability, traceability, digitalization) are currently shaping the future of textile testing and certification?
All the above. These things are reshaping testing and certification right now and they are connected.
Traceability. Brands need to document where materials come from and what happens to them at every stage of production. Testing data is becoming the evidence trail that supports those claims.
Digitalization. Test results, certifications and compliance records are moving into digital systems that make it easier to track, share and verify data across supply chains. The EU’s Digital Product Passport, which will require products sold in Europe to carry accessible data about their materials, composition and environmental impact, is accelerating that shift significantly.
Sustainability. As chemical regulations tighten and sourcing requirements evolve, the testing programs that help brands meet those requirements are also helping them make more sustainable sourcing decisions.
These three trends are not separate. The data that proves compliance is the same data that supports traceability and sustainability claims.
7- How is Hohenstein supporting manufacturers and brands in adapting to these evolving requirements?
We put a lot of weight on the onboarding phase of every new client relationship. That is where we do the real discovery work: understanding the products, the materials, the supply chain, the distribution and any claims the brand is making or wants to make. We focus on each of those areas because they all connect to each other.
From that onboarding, we build a cohesive testing plan, one that accounts for what the client is already doing and compares it against their markets and regulatory requirements. That plan can include leveraging certifications, a compliance roadmap, comparisons, etc.
From there the relationship continues. Products change, suppliers change, regulations change. We update testing plans accordingly so clients are prepared something shifts.
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8- Looking ahead, what advice would you give to textile companies in developing markets aiming to enter global supply chains?
Entering global supply chains today is less about budget and more about proof: of safety, compliance, sustainability, performance. The companies that succeed build compliance into product design and sourcing from the beginning, not after a buyer asks for it.
Different markets have different requirements. A buyer in Europe will ask for different documentation than a buyer in the U.S. Knowing your target market before you invest in testing and certification saves time and money. OEKO-TEX® certifications are a practical starting point because they are recognized across markets and cover the supply chain at multiple levels, giving suppliers a verified record they can bring to any buyer conversation.
Editor’s Conclusion
From my perspective, this interview clearly shows that the future of the textile industry will be shaped not only by production capacity and pricing, but increasingly by transparency, compliance, traceability, and verified sustainability. Today, global brands and retailers expect much more from suppliers than simple manufacturing capability. They are looking for trusted partners who can provide documented proof regarding chemical safety, environmental responsibility, and product performance.
What also became evident during this discussion with Jaime Griggs is that textile manufacturers in emerging regions such as the Middle East and Africa are entering a new phase of global integration. As international regulations continue evolving, companies that invest early in testing, certification, and compliance systems will gain a stronger competitive advantage in global markets.
For many textile producers, certifications are no longer just marketing tools — they are becoming essential business requirements for entering and surviving in international supply chains.
